A complex itinerary through one of the most iconic peaks in the Serra de Tramuntana, part of the famous “Route of the 3 Mils”

Its name sounds like something from a children’s story, but Rateta is in fact a rugged and historic peak in the heart of the Serra de Tramuntana. It’s one of the summits included in the well-known “Route of the 3 Mils”, along with na Franquesa and Lofra—although that trilogy has sparked some debate. As Miquel Àngel Escanelles explains on his website Toponímia Mallorca, the more accurate trio would actually be na Franquesa, Puig de Binimorat, and Lofra. “No one knows when or why the name of this iconic ridge dividing the estates of Cúber and Coma-sema was changed,” Escanelles writes. He cites historical records indicating that the mountain was known as na Franquesa as far back as the 14th century. The name Rateta (which might derive from roteta, a diminutive of rota, meaning cleared land) was, until the 19th century, only used to describe a particular section of the ridge, reached after crossing the col.

Whatever the name, the route to this 1,115-meter peak is a striking, physical journey starting from a classic trailhead: the Font del Noguer. Public transportation is available via bus line 231 (Port de Sóller – Alcúdia), though it’s always best to check current timetables at tib.org.

The Route

[00 min] From the Font del Noguer, head toward the gate of the Cúber public estate, following the GR-221 trail in the direction of the Coll de Lofra (south/southwest). Ignore the path on the right that loops around the reservoir beneath the Serra de Cúber, and continue straight on the paved road.
[10 min] Cross over the dam to the opposite side, near an old quarry used in the 1970s during the dam’s construction. The track climbs slightly, and at the top, just to the left, a cairn marks the beginning of a well-trodden trail that passes above the quarry and curves left as it flattens out (southeast/south) [15 min].

From here, you’ll already spot the Pas dels Picarols, a rocky channel clearly visible on the far left flank of Rateta, climbing above the Barranc dels Ases, where the Torrent d’Almadrà begins. From the old rotes (cultivated plots) of the Cúber estate, the pass feels within reach. Follow the cairns that guide you along a path traversing the hillside at mid-height (east/southeast), crossing a scree slope and narrowing into the channel [30 min].

The path here becomes more defined, though steep and rocky. A pause to catch your breath offers sweeping views of the Pla de Cúber, framed by Puig Major de Son Torrella and Puig de les Vinyes. Keep climbing until you reach a significant rock step [40 min]: this is the Pas dels Picarols, a short rocky staircase carved into the cliff, allowing you to safely scale this otherwise abrupt section.

Once past the step, veer right and prepare for another steep, rocky ascent. You’ll now climb a gully that rises from the Torrent d’Almadrà—either up the middle or along the right side. Cairns are plentiful. The best option is to keep to the right, where the bedrock offers a clearer, though more demanding, route. With patience and steady footing, you’ll eventually reach Rateta’s crest [1 h 10 min], marked by a large cairn. From here, follow the rounded, rocky spine of the ridge—shaped like a donkey’s back and set well away from the more dramatic cliffs to your right.
A final effort brings you to the summit of Rateta (1,115 m) [1 h 30 min].

The Descent

Begin the descent heading southeast (xaloc), guided by two clear visual markers: in front, the Puig de l’Alcadena and the Castell d’Alaró; in between them, a small oak grove, which is where you’re headed next.

[1 h 45 min] Before long, you’ll reach this grove and discover the Clot de la Neu de Coma-sema, a natural pit historically used to collect and store snow. It was associated with the Casa de Neu de Coma-sema (dating from 1636), located at the Coll del Bosc, to which it was connected by a beautifully built bridle path.
As described by Antoni Gorrias in his book Les Cases de Neu a Mallorca (Ed. El Far, 2001), the site comprises three natural pits: the largest, 16 meters deep, was adapted for snow storage; the two smaller ones served as auxiliary deposits. Inside the main pit, segments of dry-stone wall were added to plug fissures and minimize airflow, improving insulation. Seven meters of this wall remain, and the second pit shows a similar structure.

Coll del Bosc

Leave the snow pit behind and begin descending along the historic bridle path toward Coll del Bosc, heading east. This charming trail is 1.5 km long, with 19 switchbacks and a 240 m descent—half of it still paved with rustic stonework. It’s about 1.5 meters wide and generally well preserved.

[2 h 20 min] Reaching Coll del Bosc can be a bit confusing, due to several intersecting trails marked with cairns. Trust your sense of direction: aim for a small clearing where paths from Coma-sema and the Torrent d’Almadrà converge. Turn left, heading north, and follow cairns and faint blue paint marks. They lead along another old bridle path toward the Emaya water channel, which runs above the historic trail connecting Cúber, Tossals, and So n’Ordines [2 h 40 min].

Now it’s time to follow the torrent back upstream to the Cúber reservoir, walking along a track built during the 1970s waterworks project—sometimes overlapping with the original mountain trail.
[2 h 55 min] Close the circuit at the dam, and return to the main road along the paved track. These final steps are a great moment to take in the panoramic views of the valley and retrace the stunning ridge you just conquered.
[3 h 10 min] End of the route, back at the Font del Noguer.