A long and demanding hike along the Barranc path, a classic route in the Tramuntana Mountains, a UNESCO World Heritage Site

This route takes you on a long and steep walk through one of the most beautiful corners of the Serra de Tramuntana: the Biniaraix Gorge, designated a Site of Cultural Interest (BIC) under the category of monument since 1994. Its uniqueness is such that locals refer to it simply as the Barranc—there’s no other like it. Our goal is Puig del Sementer Gran, a peak often overlooked by hikers but which offers the most spectacular natural viewpoint over the vast hollow of Lofra. We begin in Sóller, accessible by public transport on lines 203 and 204 (check schedules at tib.org).

The Route

[00 min] Our walk begins at the junction of the roads to Fornalutx and Biniaraix, where you’ll find the Alqueria del Comte bridge and cross. This cross was erected in 1886 through public subscription, replacing an earlier one venerated in a small chapel built slightly downhill in 1606. Just a short distance from the center of Sóller (reached via Carrer de la Lluna), we enter this small enclave in the valley of oranges via Carrer d’Ozones. To the left, we pass Can Bala—also known as the Casa Vermella—a striking modernist mansion built in 1918 by Antoni Magraner Berio, nicknamed Bala. A few meters on, to the right, is the olive oil press of Can Det, and opposite, the Font de l’Ullet (spring). Farther up, we find the 17th-century church of Sant Felip Neri, and just behind it, Can Pons, a group of houses forming the Alqueria del Comte, named for having belonged to the Count of Empúries after the conquest of Mallorca in 1229.

Soon we reach the village center of Biniaraix [15 min], a key access point to the path through the Barranc de Biniaraix. Rather than continue on the paved road, take the stepped alley on the left. Along Carrer de Sant Guillem we reach Plaça de la Concepció, home to the 17th-century church of Santa Maria (Immaculate Conception). Carrer de Sant Josep leads us to the old communal washhouse [20 min], a gem of ethnological heritage where the women of Biniaraix once did their laundry. Just opposite stand the noble houses of Cas Don, a grand 17th-century manor whose entrance bears the baroque crest of the Bauçà family of Sóller. Leaving the square, to the right, the GR-221 signs point toward Cúber and Lluc. We follow them and enjoy a magnificent first panorama: Biniaraix to our right, Sóller in the background, and Can Riberacloser on the left.

We leave the asphalt behind and enter the ravine, shaded by Ses Solanes and beneath the imposing Cornadors. Soon we reach the torrent of the Barranc [25 min], formed by the joining of the Lofra and Verger streams. Where the path crosses the water, we encounter the classic combination of a stone bridge, cobbled ford, and stepping stones. From here, the paved path begins, with drainage grooves and side slopes to prevent accidents. Early along the route, to the right, we find the Font del Patró Lau, an ideal water refill spot. [30 min] At the Camí Vell crossroads, we continue straight. We soon reach one of the most beautiful corners of the Barranc: Ses Voltetes [45 min], where the path climbs via skillfully designed switchbacks that blend perfectly into the landscape. The workmanship of the cobbles and the old water channel from the Font del Verger—before it was redirected—is especially notable.

The mountains begin to close in, and the path draws nearer to the stream until they align. Together, they carve a dramatic zigzag at s’Estret [55 min]—a truly legendary spot. It is said that when King Jaume’s troops were fighting the last Saracens of Almallutx, the king’s powerful and noble horse left a hoofprint in the rock on the torrent’s right bank. One of many such legendary hoofprints scattered across the island.

A little farther on [1 h 00 min], we reach s’Entreforc, where the Lofra and Verger streams meet. Here stands the Alqueria del Barranc, made up of Can Silles, Can Sivella, and Can Catí [1 h 05 min]. To the left begins the path up to the Font del Verger, but we continue toward the Lofra estate.

The Dogs’ Leap

We pass to the right the connection with the Camí Vell, near the Can Catí well. Now the path begins a series of steep curves climbing the second half of the Barranc route. [1 h 40 min] At the Salt dels Gossos (Dogs’ Leap), the path flattens near the narrow entrance to the Lofra plain. Tradition holds that sick or old dogs were once thrown into the ravine here. [1 h 45 min] We reach a key junction and turn right, beginning the ascent to the saddle between Cornador Gran and Puig del Sementer Gran. We cross the head of the Lofra stream via a small bridge, and follow a well-marked path. Steady footing and patience are essential—the section is short but steep.

Eventually we reach a broad saddle [2 h 30 min]. To the right, perched on the slopes of Cornador Gran, stands the Joaquim Quesada shelter, inaugurated on April 30, 1961, along with the viewpoint we'll visit later. For now, we turn left and tackle the final major ascent of the route. The path is steep, clearly marked, and easy to follow. Just as it begins to level and veer southwest, we leave it and scramble directly up to the rocky summit on our left—perhaps guided by a cairn or two. [2 h 55 min] We have reached the summit of Puig del Sementer Gran, where we are rewarded with sweeping views over the central stretch of the Serra de Tramuntana.

The Return

We return to the saddle [3 h 05 min] and follow the trail to the refuge of the Foment del Turisme de Mallorca, restored 10 years ago by the Balearic Mountaineering Federation (FBME). We skirt the building on the right and climb to the summit of Cornador Gran. Follow the cairns down to the viewpoint [3 h 15 min], where we can take a well-earned rest and enjoy the panorama. After that, it’s time to retrace our steps and make the long descent back to the Alqueria del Comte.

[6 h 00 min]