La Moleta de Pastoritx — The Mountain of the Rising Sun
La Moleta de Pastoritx — The Mountain of the Rising Sun
A journey through the eastern side of Valldemossa, along charming paths and landscapes, rich in natural and cultural heritage.
rich in natural and cultural heritage.
This is a walk best enjoyed early in the morning while it’s still cool—bring plenty of water, a hat, and sunscreen. We begin in Valldemossa, one of the most appealing areas in the Tramuntana mountains (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) for hiking. As always, respect for nature is key: don’t push your limits or take unnecessary risks. While this isn’t a technically difficult route, it does require some experience navigating mid-mountain terrain. Expect to use your orientation skills, as some parts of the path are not clearly marked.
Our goal is La Moleta de Pastoritx, a peak to the east of Valldemossa, often referred to as the "mountain of the rising sun." The route takes us through historic estates like Sa Coma, Pastoritx, and Son Verí, using trails that, while mostly private, offer no access restrictions. Along the way, we’ll pass two significant water sources: the Font Nova (or Font de la Coma), which once irrigated orchards and powered mills and now supplies water to the town; and the impressive Font de Son Verí, or “Fountain of the Grotto,” whose vaulted structure has unfortunately collapsed.
Before lacing up your boots, remember that public transport can get you to the trailhead. Bus L-203 drops you off at the entrance to Valldemossa (check schedules at tib.org), in Plaça de Campdevànol, right where Archduke Louis Salvador Avenue begins. For maps, the Editorial Alpina Tramuntana South 1:25,000 is highly recommended.
The Route
[00 min] Begin walking from the bus stop, heading in the direction of Palma. As the road (Ma-1110) starts descending into l’Estret, just where the sidewalk ends, a footpath begins—follow it until reaching the curve known as Giro de la Coma, near the estate’s main house [10 min]. Continue following the GR-221 markers as they lead into the Cairats forest. The gentle ascent along a paved lane brings us to our first point of interest: a series of old washhouses. Just in front of the estate [15 min], admire the towering pine tree of Sa Coma, included in the Catalogue of Singular Trees of the Balearic Islands. It is the tallest recorded tree in the archipelago: 17 meters high with a trunk circumference of over 4 meters.
Continue a few more meters on the same road, which leads to Son Verí, where we’ll return later. Ignore the first gate on the left (followed by the GR), and instead take the second gate on the right beside a small structure. A wide and easy cart track leads through what used to be cultivated fields. As the trail begins to ascend with some bends, you’ll find Font de la Coma on your right—now one of the town’s municipal water sources.
Return to the trail and continue climbing the slopes of La Moleta de Pastoritx. Pass two forks (right and left) but stay straight until reaching the Pla de Xots [30 min], a plateau marked by a dry-stone wall that separates the old farmland (now overgrown with scrub and pine) from the mountain forest. Cross the wall at the far-right end, next to a stone hutand an old lime kiln.
Pick up a path heading southeast through the holm oak forest, running parallel to the stone wall. Cross another wall, this one dropping down the mountain, through a small gate with no door. Immediately turn right and tackle the final ascent to the Pla de la Moleta [45 min]. Shortly before arriving, you’ll cross the boundary between Sa Coma and Pastoritx. Continue south on a trail until reaching a large water tank and stone shelter [50 min]. Just behind the hut, a signposted trail leads up to the ridge—an area known to hunters as Penya-segats d’en Garavat. The top features a traditional hunting stand with nets [1 h 00 min].
Look to your right, just below the ridge, to find the continuation of the trail heading west. Along this stretch, you’ll pass several hunting posts, which double as natural lookouts over southern Mallorca. Cross a small mountain pass and join the official Pastoritx ridge path [1 h 25 min], where you’ll soon spot a large cairn of stones [1 h 35 min], marking the summit.
The Fountain of Son Verí’s Grotto
Begin your descent by retracing your steps to the mountain pass [1 h 45 min], then turn left onto a well-marked trail that leads down to a wider path—turn right (northeast) here. Soon, you’ll pass the hut and water tank once again [1 h 55 min]. Continue straight to a new junction. Take the right fork, which winds narrowly between rocks in a spiral descent. Ignore a left-hand path [1 h 55 min] and keep going southwest. Leaving the mountain forest, enter the olive groves of Pastoritx, connect with the main path from the estate, and continue southward [2 h 05 min]. A few climbing curves bring you into the Serral del Pi woods.
Eventually, the cart track meets the border between Pastoritx and Son Verí [2 h 25 min]. A set of stones fitted into the dry-stone wall acts as steps to cross over. Follow the well-marked trail through a section of forest visibly damaged by Storm Juliette, which hit in late February 2023. The path descends quickly until joining a wider trail that leads to the GR-221.5, near Son Verí [2 h 35 min].
Take the path to the right and you’ll immediately arrive at the Font de la Gruta de Son Verí, also known as d’en Porcell. A stunning 16th-century structure now lies in ruins due to a rockslide. “At the base of a sheer rock face draped in ivy sits the Grotto of Son Verí, with two semi-circular arches at the entrance, a capital bearing the date 1591, and a pediment crowned with a bust of a human figure holding a globe. The tympanum bears the name of Jesus and a coat of arms with a crescent moon. On either side, heraldic cups topped with a globe and button.” (Die Balearen, Archduke Ludwig Salvator).
From here, the same path takes you to the road linking Son Verí and Sa Coma [2 h 45 min]—the old route between Valldemossa and Bunyola. Simply follow it back toward Valldemossa, passing through Sa Coma, and end the circuit where you started: at the bus stop.
[3 h 15 min]