Circuit around the Bastida via Verger, Can Llenderina and Cals Reis

Circuit around the Bastida via Verger, Can Llenderina and Cals Reis

A long and demanding route between Alaró and Bunyola, rich in landscapes, history and heritage, in the lower reaches of the Tramuntana

This is a long, challenging route with spectacular scenery. It requires patience, good stamina and solid navigation skills to enjoy a truly immersive mountain experience—always with care and respect for the natural and cultural environment. The walk begins in Los Damunt, the oldest part of Alaró, at the foot of the Mola de la Bastida, a former fortress dating back to late Roman times. We will circle this hill after passing the Verger estate, the crosses of Can Llenderina, and the Talaia de Cals Reis. Public transport (L342) is available from the train station in Consell (check schedules at tib.org and trensfm.com).

The Route

[00 min] From the Plaça de la Bastida, just in front of the 14th-century manor house that shares its name with the ancient fortress, we head into this historic neighbourhood of Alaró. We pass the Plaça de Cabrit i Bassa and follow Carrer de Son Duran toward the Font de les Artigues, along the Camí de l’Estret [20 min]. On the way, we pass two notable landmarks: first, Can Corona, a regionalist-style house from the mid-20th century with an inscription on the left column of the main entrance that reads: "For your own dignity and respect for others, speak well"; and second, the Font del Jardí, a former Islamic-era hydraulic mill that was part of a system of nine mills powered by the Font de les Artigues.

As the Camí de l’Estret begins to climb more steeply, we find a wire fence and stile on the right [30 min]. A stone stairway and iron ladder allow us to connect with the Pas de l’Estaca path. Stay on the path and respect the private property. We leave a small building on the left and follow a well-trodden trail that climbs between terraced fields, skirts a small spring, and heads into a lush, narrow gully. After passing through a small gate, we zigzag uphill. A second hut appears on the right as we continue diagonally toward the northeast. [40 min] After crossing another gate, we begin to see small red arrows—subtle but effective markers painted by the late Pep Torrens (1945–2021). We reach a saddle with a stile that lets us over a tall wire fence [45 min].

From this saddle, the trail veers left (north/northeast). It begins flat and well-marked, but soon enters a steep ravine with tight switchbacks among fallen trees. We reach another saddle, where the path bends left. A short but steep climb brings us to an old mule track—this is the Pas de l’Estaca [1 h 10 min]. We turn right for the final climb before reaching the Verger estate, beneath the Alaró castle. This transition area blends oak forest with cultivated terraces. We reach a wide dirt track—the Rotes Fredes—close to Verger on the right [1 h 20 min].

We head toward the estate and turn left toward the Coll del Pouet. A series of shortcuts retrace the old path. At the end of the last shortcut, we cross a track and join a trail that soon leads us to the ridge of Puig de Can Llenderina [1 h 45 min]. From here, we enjoy views over both Alaró and Orient. We continue westward, skirting the summit, which the path passes just a few metres below. Our goal is the Creus de Can Llenderina [2 h 05 min]. Beyond the summit and a small shepherd’s shelter, we find the crosses near the cliff edge. Made of wrought iron, about a metre tall and spaced ten metres apart, these are Calatrava crosses, symbolising the arms of the Feliu family, former owners of Son Bernadàs Vell, today known as the Hermitage. One marks a property boundary, the other a municipal one.

We begin descending westward, past a dividing wall into a wooded gully. Here we must pay close attention to cairns. After passing a couple of charcoal-burning platforms, we reach the Camí del Pas de l’Escaleta [2 h 20 min]. We turn right, climbing until we see a wooden sign pointing to both Orient and Alaró. We leave the main trail to the left and follow a new one that leads to the Pas de l’Estaló and to Orient, via Cals Reis. A gentle climb brings us to a kind of lookout saddle [2 h 45 min], where a new path begins to the left. Though overgrown, it is clearly a well-built trail. It ends at a large charcoal platform with a hut on the left. From here we climb steeply up a slope to a dry-stone wall. The trail continues right, close to the cliff, and then climbs left to the summit of the Talaia de Cals Reis [3 h 10 min]. At the top stands a Talayotic-era construction with a double circular platform, likely used for surveillance or ritual purposes.

Pas de l’Estaló 

We continue southwest along the ridge, at first on a faint path, then cross-country, always staying near the cliff edge on our right. We reach a point above the Pas de l’Estaló that seems impassable, but to the right we find a descent route that connects with the trail to the Rafal estate [3 h 45 min]. We turn left and head toward this historic Alaró estate on a clear, cairned trail (southeast/south), through a saddle and oak-filled gully. [4 h 10 min] We leave the Rafal estate on our right and follow a track that curves around the Penyal de la Galera.

The descent is quick, but we pause near the Coll de la Bastida on our right. We cross to the opposite side of the ridge and continue to the Font de la Bastida [4 h 25 min]. The spring, declared of public utility in 1966, supplied the Bastida bottling plant until the late 1990s.

We continue downhill to the former industrial site [4 h 45 min], exit left through the main gate, and head toward Alaró via the Camí de Son Borràs. We re-enter Los Damunt and finish the walk in front of the Bastida estate [5 h 10 min].